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TANGENT EXPEDITIONS LEADERSHIP & GUIDING PROTOCOL
This Protocol covers the following aspects of professional expeditions:
High Altitude Warning
Categories of Professional Expeditions
IFMGA Individually Guided
This describes guiding in the classic sense with an IFMGA Mountain Guide working with his/her clients at all times. The usual procedures of Alpine guiding will be applied in a Greenland environment. This would necessitate a 1:1 or 1:2 guiding ratio in most cases, or up to 1:3 on technically easy ground on alpine grade F or PD- routes. This would normally be a very expensive option for clients.
Professionally Individually Guided
This is the term applied to the more usual climbing strategy on Greenland expeditions, when led by a professional guide, including IFMGA, Aspirants and non-IFMGA guides. This is defined by the following criteria:
Professionally Led Expeditions
Professionally led expeditions are where the expedition is organised up to and including base camp (or advance base camp if one is used). The services provided would include the following services listed below, but it is not a compulsory requirement that the guide should accompany the clients to the summit. In reality however, they will endeavour to do so:
Professionally consulted (independent) expeditions are those where an independent group of friends or colleagues have approached Tangent for a logistics and consultancy package. This is likely to include such services as flights, accommodation, additional transport, fuel, specialist equipment hire, consultancy, but does not include the services of a guide in any way. These would be operated on a similar basis to a professionally led expedition but with the important exclusion of any guide services in the mountains or at base camp.
Consulted Expeditions are intended for private teams who wish to have the convenience of having the expedition organised by a professional operator, and the benefit of professional advice by telephone. However, they would be completely self-sufficient on the mountain, normally providing all their own personal camping and climbing equipment and food, unless arranged for separately by Tangent Expeditions Ltd. On Consulted Expeditions there would be no Tangent leader or guide in the mountains.
Expedition Leader’s Experience
IFMGA Individually Guided
Leaders working on a climbing based individually guided expedition will hold an Aspirant IFMGA or MIC qualification and have previous expedition experience. The guide must show evidence of exemplary and relevant past expedition climbing and leadership experience and be competent in glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques.
Leaders working on a climbing based individually guided expedition will normally hold an Aspirant IFMGA or MIC qualification and have previous expedition experience. A lesser MIA or Winter ML qualification will be acceptable where the guide can show evidence of exemplary and relevant past Greenland expedition climbing and leadership experience and be competent in glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques.
Leaders working on a professionally led expedition will normally hold an MIC, MIA or Winter ML qualification. For those with an MIA or Winter ML qualification the leader must have previous Greenland expedition experience. The leader must show evidence of exemplary and relevant past expedition climbing and leadership experience and be competent in glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques.
Professionally Consulted (Independent) Expeditions
Leaders working on a consulted expedition should have previous experience of leading at least two previous Greenland expeditions for Tangent Expeditions.
The above information relates primarily to snow and glacier based expeditions to remote mountain ranges in east Greenland. Some expeditions however, are carried out in more accessible, non-glaciated environments where exceptions to the above rules may apply. In such areas it is often acceptable to employ leaders with less experience than stated above, especially with regard to summer walking and back packing tours, and dog sled tours where no instructional experience is required. The final decision as to the suitability of a leader is therefore at the sole discretion of Tangent Expeditions Ltd and the above definitions of leaders and guides are not a contractual obligation.
Expedition leaders and guides will be assessed for their suitability based on the following:
a) a relevant and current National Governing Body (NGB) award;
b) an equivalent nationally or internationally recognised award;
c) in house assessment and training;
Items c) and d) will be supported by a written statement of competence by a Technical Adviser.
Regarding point c), in-house training and assessment will take place annually by the Technical Advisor for leaders employed for the coming season, with specific attention to glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques.
Author: Paul Walker
Position: Director (Tangent Expeditions Ltd)
Dated: 27 November 2011